BRITTANY

If you like waves splashing high on rocky coasts, sturdy granite homes, and the smell of the sea you'll love Brittany. Salt air blends with fog and and the aroma of fresh seafood to create an unforgettable mélange. On this trip I arrived on the south coast of Brittany after coming down the Loire River from Orleans. After long lazy days alongside the river with bike and tent, the first sight of the Atlantic was a big thrill. I'd never biked across a country to an ocean before. I continued along the south coast until I reached the Pointe du Raz, the very end of land. I then backtracked and crossed the peninsula to the north coast and worked my over to St. Malo and Mont St. Michel. Finally I turned inland passing Fougeres on the way to Caen where I caught the train for Paris.

Ferrying with the bike across the bay from Dinard to the walled city of St. Malo. The fortress city of St. Malo, virtually impregnable on its own small island, was long an independent ciy state. Many corsairs sailed from the safety of its high granite walls beneath to loot shipping of all nations in the English Channel. Tides are spectacular and sometimes dangerous on this coast.
Walking horses on the beach after the swimmers have left. Don't worry, the tides will sweep the beach. The beach at La Baule on the south coast of Brittany. A wonderfully interesting and variegated resort with a wide range of places to stay. This stretch of fine, goldern sand is rated the best beach in Europe hands down.
Boats waiting aground on the mud in the fishing port of Barfleur
In a few hours these boats will be afloat and working. On my last visit they were having la Fete de Huitres, the Oyster Festival with a terrific seamen's chorus. And good beer.
No, it's not snow. Huge piles of salt from the nearby "pans", the rectangular sea water traps you see in the background. Near Guerande sea salt is created by holding sea water in shallow "pans" until it evaporates, then refilling with more water. Soon salt formations begin to grow on the bottom. The salt is then raked by hand off the muddy bottom and stored in heaps on the shore. The whole process is a little smelly but the salt does have a unique taste. At some point someone will come along to put this raw salt into the little bags you can buy at the side of the road.
The Rance, an extremely powerful tidal river, offers these yachts the opportunity to cruise dozens of kilometers inland from the English Channel to the ancient city of Dinan. Founded before the start of the last millenium, a number of its original buildings still stand in the main square.
The city is old enough to be represented on the Bayeux Tapestry as a fortress town. It is protected by a high wall standing 75 metres above the River Rance.
  A walk through Dinan is a voyage of architectural and historical discovery. Many of the buildings have been updated and restored continuously since their construction and therefore have a mix of architectural features.

For nearly a thousand years le Mont St. Michel has sailed like a fabulous craft over the sands and waters of the bay. As evening falls the crowded streets and lanes become quiet. The church regains its incredible peace. Antiquity steals back in to reclaim its own.

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