MONKS, PIRATES AND TWO INVASIONS

This is a two week self supported tour, meaning everyone carries own stuff pays own and looks out for each other. There is no, repeat no van support. There are no drive along members. There is always public transport of course especially for folding bikes and there are always taxis. Timing looks like two weeks out of the three week period from July 30 to August 20, 2010 by consensus. The mileages are low, mostly in the 25 to 35 range although you can do more if you wish. Mileages are low because we're actually going places that you'll want to stop and see. Terrain is flat with a very few short climbs. There are only 8 actual days on the road with 3 double nights en route, all in historic places well worth exploring and/or with great loups to do You may want to add in a day or two before and after in Paris.

We fly in and out of Paris. We train from Paris to St. Malo, train from Pontorson (near Mont Saint Michel) to Cherbourg, and then train back to Paris from Bayeux. At the end of the trip hang out in Paris if you like before heading home.

You really should have a high quality folding bike. With one of these you put it in the suitcase in your home, fly with just a suitcase and carry-on saddle bags, no extra charges or hassle. You unpack it at the hotel in Paris. The hotel in Paris keeps the suitcase and you pedal to the train station. Bag it for the train and unbag in St Malo. Have an incredible ride. Bag again in Bayeux, train to Paris, pedal to the hotel and around town then into the suitcase for the plane. Astoundlingly simple. A high quality folding bike reduces your effort on the road. It rides as well or better than conventional road touring bikes and offers a seamless and instant transit to any public transport if needed. If there is a new bike in your future get a good folder, you'll use it again and again and you won't be sorry.

If you have a conventional bike it's necessary to compress and wrap it in the states, put it in a box at the airport, unpack at the airport in Paris but leave it wrapped for the train then unwrap and assemble it in St. Malo. Maybe disassemble it in Pontorson and unwrap in Cherbourg, then do it all one more time to get to Paris. This is possible. I did it for decades, HERE'S HOW and but it's a hassle now that there are high quality folding bikes. If you intend to travel much on a bike a folder is really the best way to go by far. You'll know you can go any place, any time. You can look at it when you get home and remember where it took you.

The hotels' websites in each town are listed below when available so you can check the rates and estimate your expenses. Here is a listing for August 2010. As before, I will make the reservations for the train down and the hotels so we all end up at the same place at the same time. At the hotel everyone pays their own way, ditto for meals. Dining outside is mandatory. For the train tickets you can pay me back. People may decide to train back on different days. They are mostly 2 star and the kind of places Europeans stay in; clean, safe and not too expensive. They all are used to bike travelers and will have secure storage for bikes. The prices are in Euros. Check the international exchange rate. A Euro is about $1.40 at the moment. If you print out the route notes (when ready) you can follow the route on a map or on one of the online mapping sites. Google Earth is fun. Notice these are route directions, not a cue sheet. Everybody needs a large scale map to do this.

This is a terrific ride. There is no comparison between this and a rather tame commercial ride with obsequious guides and prestige dinners. You can go on one of those and never actually meet a Frenchman. The route is marked with pushpins on the originally included Google Earth link. With the exception of the first 2-3 miles exiting Cherbourg I have actually biked this entire route, parts of it as recently as 2006. This is an incredible trip. The route wasn't chosen randomly. The places and the routes are all worth the ride to get to. This is a pleasure cruise. As all tours should be.

Here's a quick preview by day of the week.: ROUTE NOTES TURN BY TURN

Friday Night over water

Saturday Paris Arrive Paris
Hotel de Senlis

Sunday St. Malo
Hotel Porte de St Pierre

Train to St Malo, arriving midday.

Monday St. Malo
Explore St Malo Possible trip to Dinan, walled medieval inland. Beach. Walk out to adjacent islands see tomb of Chateaubriand when tide permits.

Tuesday Mont Saint Michel
)Hotel Saint Michel
A beautiful ride along the coast to Mont Saint Michel stopping in Cancale, Oyster Capital of the World for lunch.

Wednesday Mont Saint Michel
Hang. Watch the spectacular tides. Ride to visit the small villages in the are, visit Avranches to see medieval manuscripts or Dol de Bretagne to see where the struggle between the Devil and Archangel Michael took place. In the evening after the tourists have all gone, see something they don't, visit the monastery and the church surmounting it high up on the rock and see the "Imaginaires", a surreal/new age walk through you will never forget.

Thursday St. Vaast la Hougue
"Hotel de France et des Fuschias"
Train to Cherbourg and Ride around the coast to St. Vaast la Hougue, the first port liberated on D Day.
Neat little working port, great beach, great atmosphere. Great seafood. Boat out to isle of Tatihou.

Friday Ste. Mere Eglise
Hotel le Sainte Mere
Ride along Utah Beach. fortifications, museums. End in for the night with an incredible museum in Ste. Mere Eglise itself housing an entire plane as well as an invasion glider. The parachute is still hanging down the side of the church.

Saturday Grandcamp Maisy
Hotel la Grandcompaise

Visit nearby Pointe du Hoc. See more reminders of the events that took place there including the Secret German batterie

Sunday Arromanches
"Hotel Mountbatten"
A day full of history from Omaha Beach to the American Cemetery ending at the site of the artificial harbour built by the Allies. Parts of it still in place.

Monday Bayeux
Hotel le Maupassant
Ride east along the beach as far as Ouistrehan or Sword Beach where the Free French landed before turning inland for our last stop in Bayeux.

Tuesday Bayeux
See the beautiful town and the Tapestry, a contemporary record of another invasion very nearly a thousand years ago. Return to the invasion area for one last look.

Wednesday Paris Hotel de Senlis
Train back to Paris with plenty of time to pack the bike and fly out the next day but consider staying on a day or two, maybe doing a bike tour of the city, a quick day trip to a Loire Valley Chateau or just hanging out with a glass of wine. Check out the schedules on the S.N.C.F.