Corno Grande West Ridge,
with rescue helicopter, 2915 m.
The Gran Sasso mountain
range in Central Italy near Rome has the highest peaks of the Italian Apennines. There are several over
2500 m high mountains. Corno Grande at 2915 m is the highest peak of the
Apennines and is a popular target for
both mountain climbers scaling the near vertical rock faces of 300 m (shortest
South face) to 1000 m (East face) but also walkers taking the two marked trail
routes.
The Gran Sasso is easily
accessible from Rome. The main access town is l’Aquila, which means eagle in English. It is only 1.5
h by the ARPA bus from the Rome Tiburtina Station (500 m away from the frontal
entrance) with busses every hour to 45 minutes on Saturday but only half the
frequency on Sunday. Tiburtina is only 40 minutes from the main Fiumicino
airport with trains every 20 minutes.
We took Virgin Express from
Amsterdam to Rome on Saturday which has ideal flying times to travel to and
from l’Aquila the same day for only Euro 150, a similar price as the overpriced
regular train ticket by Thalys to Paris
(Euro 180) .
L’Aquila has a medieval
walled city on a hill top and a large town square with very Italian side walk
cafes and ice cream bars. On Saturday night it was busy on the main square.
A projection television was
broadcasting a football game loudly and competing in the noise of the terrace.
Later, they switched to teenage karaoke
which was more pleasant to listen to.
We stayed in the hotel
Amiternum, 2 km West of the city centre which can be booked through the
Internet at a mark-up of 15 Euros, from
75 to 90. It is not easy to book hotels over the phone in small towns in Italy
and the Amiternum staff didn't speak English or French, so it is worth it. The
ARPA bus from and to Rome and the local bus in L’Aquila all stop at the hotel.
There is a much better located hotel in the City centre on the main square but
this is more difficult to reach. However, walking from the Hotel Armiternum to
ht ecity centre is along a busy road and not very pleasant. Luckily, there is a
good restaurant at 500 m from the Hotel.
I found three maps of the
region. The best one is the 1:25,000 mountaineering map of the Club Alpino
Italiano. It has numerous marked trails but some are out of date or have old
very faint marks. The more challenging mountain ridge routes can be too
difficult for walkers like the West and North route of Pizzo Cefalone.
The second best map with a
good overview is the German 1:50,000 Compass map. It has less marked trails but
these are reliable although some
important trails are missing.
The third map is a 1:25000
mountaineering map that comes with route descriptions in Italian. Most of these
routes are already on the map of the Club Alpino Italiano and the route
descriptions are too brief to be of any use. The WWW has better descriptions
and these you can translate from Italian to English easily using BabbleFish.
A big problem with all the
maps is that the refugio information is out of date. Only four Refugios are
open from roughly late May to mid September, Refugio Abruzzi and Garibaldi
South of Corno Grande, Refugio Franchetti
NW of Corno Grande and Refugio Forestale in the far East near Monte
Prena. Refugio Antonelli Alessandri in the far West near Pizzo del Belverdere
is only open in the weekend. This prevented a nice trip to the West through the
high mountains back to L’Aquila the next day.
One access route, also
marked on the Kompass Map, starts North of the Hotel Amiternum going slowly up
the hill to Collebrincioni, then past
Assergi and finally to the Funivia (cable car) North of Assergi. This may take
5-8 hours. At the funivia there are a few hotels like the Crystallo. The
funivia is closed from late May to late June for maintenance but this is also
the quiet period so you will have to walk, using the shortest 2-3 h route below
the funivia cables or the longer Western route.
Another, easier 7-8 h route
from L’Aquila to Campo Imperatore marked on the map of Club Alpino Italiano
(but not on the Compass map) starts in Paganica, which can be reached by the
city bus. It first goes to Fileto along an old narrow gravel road. From here
you will need to navigate using this map as the marker quality is variable,
from none to very clear. You follow a NE route until the foot of the main 2000
m high WNW - ESE ridge of the Gran Sasso and then go North-West up the ridge
picking up the number 10 route coming up from the Funivia, North of Assergi.
This is a very gentle walk, ideal as a
walk-in our walk-out.
From Campo Imperatore you
could continue another hour to Refugio Abruzzi or Garibaldi.
This only has three
buildings, a large hotel named Campo Imperatore, a refugio annex restaurant and
an 'Osservatorio', an astronomical station. Most visitors come by car using the
long, winding tarmac mountain road or use the Funivia, very few walk-up.
Osservatorio (with
domes) and the hotel Campo Imperatore (red)
Osservatorio at
Campo Imperatore.
You have a view at Corno
Grande to the North in the far distance, the highest peak of the Italian
Apennines at the 2915 m.
Monte Aquila is also North
of the station and deep down underneath there is a particle physics lab
consisting of a big basin of heavy water to track solar neutrinos and other
rare particles. The 1500 m thick rocks filter out background radiation and
cosmic rays. When the scientists started, they could only spot 5 particles per
month, now they count 55 per day. The
access tunnel is close to the Gran Sasso highway tunnel NE of Assergi.
The Campo Imperatore hotel
has a famous history and was built in 1923. It was renamed after the
Imperatore, 'Emperor Mussolini'. This
is where Mussolini was imprisoned on 28 August 1943 by King Victor Emanuel
III, see [1], as the Italians were
fed up with him. German paratroopers in gliding planes freed him on 12
September 1943, only 14 days later. His 2-room suite is still in the original
state, even the blankets on the bed, and is now a museum.
Mussolini's room
Detail, plague at
Mussolini's room
The hotel has small, but
neat, comfortable rooms with room and full meals at only Euro 104 per night (in
June) for two persons served by a very friendly staff. The ceiling in the rooms
is surprisingly low but the restaurant is majestic, having a high ceiling and a
round outer wall. This must have been a summer and winter play-ground for the
Upper Class citizens of Rome in the 30's as a substitute for Switzerland.
When staying at Campo
Imperatore, Corno Grande to the North looms from a far distance being lit by
the late night or early morning sun when it tends to clear. During the day this
mountain is generally obscured by
clouds.
Corno Grande, view
from the Campo Imperatore parking lot, at 7 PM.
Corno Grande,
detail from Campo Imperatore. 4th degree direct route visible,
running along the snow fields bit left and vertically straight-up, “only for
walkers with climbing experience”.
As the highest peak of the
Italian Apennines at the 2915 m it does challenge many visitors but the trails
to the top are a bit steep and rough, and it is an effort, especially in June
when steep trails can still be covered by equally steep but very slippery
snowfields requiring a pickle and crampons.
We stayed at Refugio
Garibaldi which saved 1 hour. This is the oldest refugio built in 1886 with
thick walls for the meters thick snow cover and a chimney to get out through
the roof when needed. There is space for only 10 people and in the week-end it
can be full. There is no toilet and just is an outside tap for washing.
Refugio Garibaldi
Dog at Refugio
Garibaldi, at sunset.
Trail close to
Refugio Garibaldi, last part to the West Ridge of Corno Grande (above), Route 3.`.
The trail from Refugio
Garibaldi leads up steeply to the start
of the crestal West route in only one hour. In June with many snow fields,
Corno Grande West
Ridge and the Northern normal route (trail going up in the snow).
Corno Grande West
Ridge and the Northern normal route, detail.
the normal route which
starts 0.5 h further is only suitable when using crampons and a pickle, and the
crestal ridge is better but don't underestimate this as it is in part a 3rd and
even a 4th degree rock climb with breath-taking views down a 600 m cliff.
Corno Grande West
Ridge, normal route far left. Normal trail to Refugio Franchetti vaguely
visible (white line) going slowly up.
Corno Grande West
Ridge.
Corno Grande,
cross at the top.
We did the West ridge in
cloudy and stormy weather at a temperature of 8 Celsius which took 1 hour and
15 minutes up and 1 hour back. There is a visitors book that showed that at
least 30 people reach the top on Sunday but only 3 or 4 a day during the week.
We didn't meet anybody on this Monday between 9 AM and 1 PM.
On the way back, about half
way, while taking a picture on the North side, I dropped my camera bag. It
quickly picked up speed on the 45 degree rock face, landed on a snow field and
disappeared. It is a small black-grey square box shaped bag with a bit of
green. If you find it inform info@vanzeeland.com.
The continuation to Refugio
Franchetti through the Passe del Cannone is not simple. It leads along a narrow
and steep trail, fortunately well-marked, but in part obscured by large snow
fields that can be very steep and tricky to cross [1].
Once we encountered a 2 m
high vertical snow ridge above a ledge we had to go down. I went down first
using a ski pole for safety pushing it deep into the snow like using a pickle,
but killing the lower steps by sliding down the last half meter. Rudolfo
followed but he lost his balance and 100 kg rolled on the ledge where I was
ready to stop him but not after he shouted for help while still trying to keep
his balance on the snow ridge.
At the Passe del Cannone
there is a 15 m high Via Ferrata, a metal cable, on a 4th degree rock wall for
safety but not very difficult.
Via ferrata at
Passe del Cannono.
The last part to the
Refugio Franchetti you should follow the red and white marks towards the saddle
with Corno Piccolo else you end up on the Eastern scree slope like us, some 400 m high, that is fun to slide down
but kills your boots.
Corno Piccolo and
Refugio Franchetti.
Refugio
Franchetti.
Refugio Franchetti is
fairly large, has good food and even an outside shower if you are prepared to
use the cold water hose on the squat toilet. It is only opened from June to mid
September as heavy snow on the trail up prevents longer opening hours. We still
had to cross a few snow fileds crovering the trail going down.
It is one hour down a good
trail to the top of the ski lift of
Prati di Tivo. Now you have a choice, to follow the ridge down to a
parking lot at the end of an access road, use the marked short cut past half
way down the ridge to the village, or just go down the ski slope which is the
shortest , see picture below.
Initially we planned to go
to Casale San Nicolo but we couldn't find the trail at the ski lift (on the
picture of Refugio Franchetti above) going down yesterday, obscured
by thick clouds filling the valley. We
may have seen a tiny trail disappearing very steeply down into the clouds, a
typical dashed line on the map, so not easy. It is suppose to start at the open
air church devoted to the Holy Mary and goes down 1200 m.
Corno Piccolo and
the ski slope (left) towards Refugio Franchetti.
We followed the ridge
almost down to the forest and used a marked short cut through the forest to
Prati di Tivo, but the route is often obscured, and you have the feeling you
walk in an endless forest. You end up at the ski lift, 10 minutes above the
village. It took us about 1.5 h in total to get down from the ski lift high up,
and we arrived at 7 PM. Next time I would take the shorter ski slope which has
a nice clear view down.
Yesterday we decided to do
the Eastern loop back to Campo Imperatore from Prati di Tivo saving a descent
of 800 m to Casala San Nicola. In the morning we changed our mind again to
explore the Western area that looked more interesting as it has several
mountains of over 2500 m. Interesting routes are loops to the West, with
summits of Pizzo Intermesoli or Corvo Grande, follow ridge routes like nr. 1B
or valley routes like nr. 2 and 14 which can also be used to go back to Campo
Imperatore. We chose the easy nr. 2 route with a side trip to Pizzo Cefalone.
The walk South starts in a
forested area and changes to a barren land above 1600 m with impressive rock
faces on either side. It is warm today, 18o degrees Celsius. The
trail is very gentle following the valley and it is only 2 hours to Capanne,
the main junction in the big bowl of Alpine meadows. The high route through
Corne Grande (nr. 3) would have been 5 hours.
Pizzo Cefalone at 2533 m
looked like an interesting side trip. The only safe access is using the ridge
trail from the pass La Portella, 45 minutes up from Capanna. You can also do a
loop through the Passe dei Grilli, route 1V, but do not expect to reach Pizzo
Cefalone from this ridge although you could always try it, as the trail is not maintained and very
tricky by loose slippery gravel. Similarly, a bigger loop using the Cresta
della Malecoste seems impossible, already suggested by the name of the ridge.
Route from Capanne
(1957 m) to the pass at La portella (2260 m, top) with snow fields on Northern
slopes persisting in June.
The ridge trail starting at
the pass of La Portella is narrow and in places runs high above near vertical
rock faces where you have to pay attention, holding on to rocks, a true dashed
line on the map.
Ridge route from
la Portella to Pizzo Cefalone.
It is a very popular route
being so close to Campo Imperatore. The last 100 m the trail zigzags steeply up
the mountain with one easy rock climb.
From Pizzo Cefalone at 2533
m, you have a panoramic view at Monte
Corvo C2623 m), Pizzo Intermesoli (2635 m) and Corno Grande (2915 m).
Back to Campo Imperatore is
only 1 h.
After doing Corno Grande
and Pizzo Cefalone we got overambitious, we would try the Corno Grande direct
route, 'for walkers with climbing experience only', the Lonely Planet said.
From Campo Imperatore it is
only one hour along a gentle trail (nr. 4) to the foot of the 600 m higher
mountain. Following the marked trail, the first few hundred meter is mostly
steep scree and some solid rocks. Many walkers go up but they all stop at the
sign to the Bivaco Bafile. The trail going to the right somehow leads to the
orange bivouac sitting high up on a rock ledge along very steep rock faces, very
impressive how to get there, for climbers only.
Corno Grande
direct route
The continuation of the Direct
route looks fine if it wasn't for the steep snow fields obscuring the trail.
The map indicates a dashed route for the first 100 -130 m but dotted for the
last 170 - 200 m and this does look like a 4th degree rock climb.
We were hesitating and two
Italian men were coming up with impressive tight and colourful outfits armed
with full gear including ice axes. We
questioned the first one coming up who was clearly overweight and looked more
like a coloured seal at close distance. Ah, ni crampons, he said, ni possible!
We believed him.
The alternative today is an
Eastern loop along the ridges starting at Monte Aquila to the saddle of Vado di
Corno. This is a very easy, well-marked grassy ridge walk where you have nice
views at the East-West ridge and the broad Alpine valley below with the tarmac
access road, the over 1000 m high NE face of Corno Grande and the villages deep
down North of the Grand Sasso massif.
After 1 hour there is the
saddle of Vado di Corno with a 4 wheel drive trail to the main valley road.
This is the only easy departure point of the ridge to the South. Beyond Vado di Corvo, the crestal route is
easy until you reach Monte Brancastello at 2385 m, about 2 hours, but behind this
mountain the trail has heavy duty Via Ferratas and the dotted lines on the
map indicates this is for mountaineers
with proper equipment only. The full crestal route starting at the Vado di
Corvo is a 8-11 hour trip, for experienced climbers only.
The old trails in the
valley and marked on the map are mostly invisible and after following the
tarmac route we took the ski run way coming down from Campo Imperatore, the nr.
10 route.
Broad valley East
of Campo Imperatore with access road.
See link: [Pizzo Intermesoli]
With the funivia being
closed, the Western direct route to l'Aquila is a bit long. The Eastern route
along the nr. 10 trail, to Fileto and Paganica is shorter and more gentle going
down. It take you across Alpine meadows and close to Fileto, across scenic hills
with forests.
Main ridge of the
Grand Sasso, view from the East.
Lazy walk-out from
Camp Imperatore to Fileto and Paganica
Fileto is about 4-5 hours
from Campo Imperatore and ideal for a lunch stop. Paganica is another 2 hours
following the old lower gravel road and not the crestal trail as marked on
the map.
The clouds were building up
over the Gran Sasso ranges during this warm day with temperatures in Fileto of
32 degrees Celsius. Thunder could be heard in the distance and the clouds seem
to expand to the South. Rain started already in Fileto but somehow kept its
location, we were constantly walking
just ahead of the heavy showers.
In Paganica we seem to have
outrun the bad weather. This is a large suburb of l’Auila. We caught the city
bus back to the Hotel Amiternum. In the
bus we met a German particle physicist working in the underground lab in
Assergi, see Pizzo Intermesoli.
You are visitor #